Tutorial for Otter sewing pattern

I made this photo tutorial so you can see how to sew my Otter Sewing Pattern ~> scroll down for step-by-step photos!

*** PLEASE NOTE – this is ONLY a PHOTO TUTORIAL ***
The FULL PATTERN IS NOT included here.

It is NOT A FREE PATTERN!

I have made this photo tutorial so people who have purchased my Otter Sewing Pattern can SEE how to sew an otter toy! (I wanted to explain this so you are not disappointed if you have found this page via a search engine and not from the link in my Oscar Otter Sewing Pattern)

OK, let’s get started!

Choose some fabric for your Otter:

You don’t have to make your otter toy in natural browns and creams if you want something a bit brighter. Look at how cool he turned out made in Otter sewn in Tula Pink Spirit Animal Otter and Chill – Sunkiss!!!!

Otter toy pattern sewn in Tula Pink fabric

HEAD:

STEP 1

Sew the CHEEK PIECES to the FOREHEAD from A – B.

STEP 2

Fold the SNOUT PIECE, fabric right sides together, to sew the top darts closed.

TIP: I find the Otter’s SNOUT looks better if you fold the seam allowance, at each dart, towards the middle and pin them in this position.

STEP 3

Sew the SNOUT PIECE to the FOREHEAD & CHEEK PIECES from C – D – C.

STEP 4

Fold the SNOUT PIECE, with the fabric right sides together again, and sew the dart closed at F.

EYES:

STEP 5

If you are using craft eyes, attach them now.

TIP: I have a tutorial to show you how to insert craft eyes on my blog.

CHIN:

STEP 6

Sew the CHIN PIECE to the SNOUT & CHEEK PIECES from E – C- F – C – E.

STEP 7

Fold the CHIN PIECE, with the fabric right sides together, and sew the dart closed at G.

STEP 8

Fold the CHEEK PIECES, right sides together again, and sew the darts closed.

EARS:

STEP 9

Sew the EAR PIECES together in pairs, leaving the flat edge open for turning. Trim the seams of the EARS to about 3mm(⅛inch) around the sewing line.

STEP 10a

Turn the EARS right sides out.

TIP: I use a chopstick to push the seams out nicely. Run the end of the chopstick along the seam from inside the EARS.

STEP 10b

Stuff the EARS with a little bit of toy stuffing and pin them to the CHEEK PIECES using the pattern markings to guide you.

TIP: Sew the EARS to the CHEEK PIECES using a very small seam allowance of 3mm(⅛inch). Tack(baste) them in place by hand. This will stop them from slipping – crooked ears aren’t always as cute as you’d think!

FLIPPERS:

STEP 11a

Pin the FLIPPER PIECES together in pairs and sew along the front seam leaving the gap open for stuffing the FLIPPERS (you do this after you stuff the Otter).

STEP 11b

Sew the FLIPPER PIECES together along the back seam.

STEP 12

Pin the FLIPPER PADS to the FLIPPER PIECES, matching X and Z. (sew right around without a gap.)

TIP: I have a photo tutorial on my blog with step-by-step photos how to make perfect feet without any ugly wrinkles! ~>

https://www.funkyfriendsfactory.com/blog/put-yourbest-foot-forward-how-to-sew-perfect-plushie-feet/

STEP 13a

Clip the seams well and turn the FLIPPERS right sides out.

STEP 13b

Pin the FLIPPERS closed at the top so that the seams line up at the middle.

STEP 14a

Pin the FLIPPERS to the TUMMY PIECE, using the pattern markings to guide you…

STEP 14b

…and sew them in place with a 3mm(⅛inch) seam allowance.

STEP 15

Pin and sew TAIL PIECE to TUMMY PIECE with the FLIPPERS in between.

STEP 16

Fold the FLIPPERS back towards the ‘tail’ and pin them to the TAIL PIECE. Sew across the tops of the FLIPPERS on the outside/right side of the fabric, 5mm(¼inch) back from the seam you just sewed, sewing through all layers of the FLIPPERS and the TAIL PIECES. (This will make the FLIPPERS extra secure which is great if you are making the toy for a small child! It also helps to make the FLIPPERS ‘lie
back’ and stop them flopping forwards).

TIP: I used white thread so you can see where I sewed BUT it is best to use a matching coloured thread for this!

ARMS:

STEP 17a

Sew the HAND PIECES to the ARM PIECES, matching the dot pattern marking.

STEP 17b

Sew the HAND & ARM PIECES together in pairs, leaving the straight edge open for stuffing.

STEP 18a

Trim the seam allowance of the HANDS & ARMS to about 3mm(⅛inch) and turn them right sides out.

TIP: Use a turning tool/chopstick again to push the seams out nicely. Run the end of the chopstick along the seam from inside the HANDS & ARMS.

STEP 18b

Stuff the HANDS & ARMS, leaving the last 2½cm(1inch) unstuffed, and pin the straight edge closed.

STEP 19

Pin the ARMS to the TUMMY PIECE using the dot pattern markings to guide you with their position.

TIP: Sew (tack/baste) the ARMS to the TUMMY PIECES using a very small seam allowance of 3mm(⅛inch).

BODY TUMMY, ARMS & LEGS:

STEP 20

Sew the FRONT BODY PIECE to the BACK BODY PIECE, along the waist seam, matching the 3 dots of the pattern markings, to make sure you sew these pieces right sides up!

STEP 21

Sew the BODY PIECES together along the back seam, from N at the back of the BACK BODY PIECES to P on the FRONT BODY PIECE, leaving the stuffing gap open.

STEP 22a

Pin the TUMMY & TAIL PIECE to the FRONT & BACK BODY PIECES along the side seam from E – N – E (with the ARMS in between) and the FLIPPERS ‘inside’ (between) the otter’s body.

TIP: This can be a hard seam to pin so use LOTS of pins to make sure the pieces don’t slip when you sew. If it’s easier for you – do one side at a time!

STEP 22b

Now sew the TUMMY & TAIL PIECE and the FRONT & BACK BODY PIECES together from E – N – E. (Check that you have caught the ARMS in the seams and unpick and fix this NOW if you didn’t.)

SEW THE HEAD TO THE BODY

STEP 23a

Pin the CHIN, CHEEKS & FOREHEAD PIECES to the TUMMY & FRONT BODY PIECES at the neck seam (with the EARS in between).

TIP: Turn the head right sides out and position it ‘inside the body’ so you can pin the pieces together at the neck seam, with the fabric right sides together.

STEP 23b

Now sew the CHIN, CHEEKS & FOREHEAD PIECES to the TUMMY & FRONT BODY PIECES at the neck seam, sew from M – A – E – G – E – A – M.

STEP 24

Pull the HEAD back out of the body so the pieces are wrong sides out again. Pin the Otter closed at the back and sew the back seam closed from P (on the FRONT BODY PIECES) to M – Q (on the FOREHEAD PIECE).

ASSEMBLY:

STEP 25

Turn the Otter right sides out through the turning gap on the BODY PIECES and use a chopstick again to make sure all the seams are turned nicely.

STEP 26

Stuff the snout area really well. Stuff the rest of the head and neck firmly too then stuff the tail and the tummy. Stuff the FLIPPERS last.

*IMPORTANT TIP:
Keep on stuffing until the Otter’s face is

very firm and round!!!

TIP: Use safety pins the pin the EARS forward as you stuff the otter. This will help them to stick out and not lie back flat. I also use a safety pin to hold the ARMS together when I stuff the BODY!

STEP 27

Sew the turning gap on the BODY PIECES and the FLIPPERS closed with a ladder stitch.

FACE:

STEP 28

If you are embroidering the eyes, sew them now. Cut the MOUTH PIECE and NOSE PIECE from felt and pin them in position. Sew the FELT PIECES in place with embroidery thread and a blanket stitch.

STEP 29

Join the NOSE PIECE to the MOUTH PIECE with a long straight stitch. Using the Whiskers Diagram to guide you, sew 3 straight stitches on each side of the SNOUT PIECE for whiskers.

*The top whisker covers the stitch line of the dart.

STEP 30

Trace the CLAM PIECE onto a double layer of fabric (right sides together). Sew on the sewing line you traced, leaving the straight edge open for turning. Cut the CLAM out with a 3mm (⅛inch) seam allowance and clip the seams where the are very curved so the CLAM will turn out nicely.

STEP 31a

Turn the CLAM and use a wooden chopstick to push the seams out well. Pin the edge of the CLAM nice and flat, then sew around the edge, using a 3mm(¼inch) seam allowance to create a nice flattened seam around them. Stuff the CLAM with a little bit of toy stuffing, tuck the seam in at the opening and sew the CLAM closed again with with a 3mm (⅛inch) seam allowance.

STEP 31b

Using the pattern markings to guide you, top-stitch the radial lines on the CLAM.

* I have highlighted the radial top-stitch lines in yellow in the photo below.