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How to sew a Highland Cow (Coo)!

I made this photo tutorial so you can see how to sew my Highland Cow Pattern ~> scroll down for step-by-step photos!

 

*** PLEASE NOTE – this is ONLY a PHOTO TUTORIAL ***
The FULL PATTERN IS NOT included here.
It is NOT A FREE PATTERN.

I have made this photo tutorial so people who have purchased the pattern can SEE how to sew a Highland Cow toy (I wanted to explain this so you are not disappointed if you have found this page via a search engine and not from the link in my Harmony Highland Cow sewing pattern!)

 

First choose some fabric…

You can sew Harmony Highland Cow from most fabrics AND you can use any colour!

BEFORE you cut any fabric ~>

You need to decide if you want to
use FUR or add a Felt FORELOCK PIECE.

***You don’t need to have BOTH!***

 

Right, let’s get sewing!

 

HORNS:

STEP 1a

Sew the HORN PIECES together in pairs, leaving the straight edges open. 

 

STEP 1b

Trim the seam allowance to 3mm(⅛ inch) at the ‘tip’ of the HORN PIECES and turn the HORNS right sides out. (I used a dark thread fpr the photo tutorial photos – so you can see where I have stitched – BUT I recommend using a matching thread!)

TIP: I like to use a wooden chopstick to help turn the seams nicely. Run the end of the chopstick back and forth along the stitching inside the HORNS until the seam is nice and smooth.

 

STEP 1c

Stuff the HORNS with toy stuffing. Use very small pieces of stuffing. (Stuff the ‘tip’ very firmly, but don’t stuff the base too much or you won’t be able to pin the HORNS closed!) 

 

STEP 1d

Pin the straight edge of the HORN PIECES closed.

 

EARS

STEP 2a

Sew the EAR PIECES together in pairs leaving the straight edges open.

 

STEP 2b

Trim the seam allowance to 3mm (⅛ inch) at the ‘tip’ of the EAR PIECES and… 

 

… turn the EARS right sides out and use a turning tool to smooth the seams like you did with the HORNS.

 

*Do NOT stuff the EARS! *

 

 

STEP 2c

Using the pattern markings to guide you, fold and pin the EAR PIECES in half, as shown by the dotted line pattern marking.

 

STEP 2d

Sew the EAR PIECES together along the sew line pattern marking (at the straight edge). This will form a tuck/fold. 

 

STEP 2e

Press this tuck/fold and pin it flat.

TIP: This is IMPORTANT because pinning the tuck flat will reduce the bulk (thickness) at the seam which will make the neck seam MUCH easier to sew later on! Here you can see what the ear ‘tuck’ looks like from the BACK (left) and FRONT (right).

 

FACE:

STEP 3a

There are 3 darts on the FACE PIECE

 

 

Don’t worry –
DARTS are EASY!

Darts are used to give a flat piece of fabric a rounder shape. If you are a beginner, you might be thinking that darts are scary?

 

Please RELAX!
It’s as easy as 1-2-3.

 

1. Fold edges together.
2. Pin them closed.
3. Sew the seam.

 

FOLD-PIN-SEW

 

 

STEP 3b

Fold the FACE PIECES with the fabric right sides together and sew the middle dart and side darts closed. 

 

Here you can see the last dart pinned,
ready to be sewn…

 

And here you can see
ALL 3 darts sewn.

 

STEP 4a

Using the pattern markings to guide you, line up the ‘outside’ edge of the HORNS with the side darts on the FACE PIECE, and pin them in position.

 

 

STEP 4b

Sew the HORNS in place, with a 3mm (⅛ inch) seam allowance, so they won’t slip and look crooked when you sew this seam later. 

 

STEP 5

Line up the ‘top edge’ of each EAR with the side darts on the FACE PIECE, so the EARS just touch the ‘outside’ edge of the HORNS and pin them in position.

TIP: If you are using FUR fabric – the pile (direction of the FUR) must lie in a ‘downwards’ / ‘outwards’ direction (away from the middle of the FACE PIECE).



STEP 6

Sew the EARS in place, with a 3mm (⅛ inch) seam allowance. (This is especially important if you are using FUR fabrics because the fur pieces slip very easily AND it also reduces the bulk of the FUR pile which makes it easier to sew this seam.)

 

SNOUT, NOSE & NECK:

STEP 7a

Pin the SNOUT PIECE to the FACE PIECE, matching the star pattern markings, and sew them together from A – A (See the tip below about sewing opposite curves / different shaped pieces together).

TIP: Don’t forget to clip the seams of the snout! They are very curved so this is really important if you are using a woven fabric like quilting cotton which is not stretchy.



 

Opposite curves made simple!

If you’re a beginner, you might be thinking – the FACE PIECE and the SNOUT PIECE won’t fit together because they’re opposite shapes? Don’t worry – it’s easy to join them.

 

You just need PINS!

 

Use this method & you’ll be fine:

1. Put the first pin in the center.
2. Put a pin on each end of the pieces.(3 pins)
3. Put a pin in between those pins.(5 pins)

 

 

PLEASE NOTE: The PIECES will pucker up in certain areas in order to create a curve. This is normal! (When you have sewn the pieces together you’ll see the result is a lovely rounded shape.)

 

4. Put a pin in between those pins.(9 pins)
5. Put a pin in between those pins.(17 pins)


LOOK how perfectly the seams line up in that bottom photo no. 5!

See ~> PINS are your FRIENDS!

 

STEP 7b

Sew the NOSE PIECE to the SNOUT PIECE from B – D – B.

 

STEP 7c

Sew the NECK PIECE to the FACE, SNOUT & NOSE PIECES from C – B – D – B – E.

 

EYES:

STEP 8

If you are using CRAFT EYES insert these now.

TIP: I have a tutorial to show you how to insert craft eyes on my blog.

craft-eyes-tutorial-How-to-insert

TAIL:

STEP 9a

* If you are using Fur for the tail – see the Fur Tail Sewing Diagram below ~>

 

 

Sew the TAIL PIECES together, leaving them at the top edge AND turning gap. (See the Tail Sewing Diagram above if you are sewing with Fur!)

 

STEP 9b

Trim the seam to 3mm(⅛ inch) at the ‘tip’ of the TAIL and clip the seams – especially where they are very curved. 

 

STEP 10a

Turn the TAIL PIECES right sides out. (Use a turning tool to turn the seams smoothly).

 

STEP 10b

If you are using a thin fabric like quilting cotton – push a small piece of toy stuffing into the ‘tip’ of the tail to add a little bit of body/shape. Use just enough so it’s not flat – you don’t want a big bulb on the end of the tail. (If you are using fur fabric or even fleece/minky – you do not need a ball of stuffing in the tail tip, because the thickness of these fabrics give the tail enough body without stuffing!) Pin the TAIL PIECES closed at the top. (If you the open end of the tail concerns you, simply tack it closed with a few hand sewing stitches. The pile of the fur will hide these stitches!) 

 

***If you are using fur fabric ~>
you don’t need any stuffing in the tail!
***

 

BODY

STEP 11a

Pin the TAIL closed at the top and pin it to one of the BODY PIECES, using the pattern markings to guide you. (Make sure the cross marking is to the front so the tail isn’t on backwards!)

 

STEP 11b

Pin the BODY PIECES together along the top, with the TAIL in between then sew them together from F – H.

TUMMY

STEP 12

Pin the TUMMY PIECES together along the middle seam from G – H, leaving them open at the front and at the stuffing gap between V and W. (DON’T sew them together at the front – it will make it difficult to sew the neck seam later!)

 

LEGS

STEP 13

Sew the INNER FRONT LEG PIECES to the TUMMY PIECES matching the single dot pattern markings.

 

STEP 14

Sew the INNER BACK LEG PIECES to the TUMMY PIECES matching the double dots pattern marking.

 

STEP 15a

Sew the HOOF PIECES to the INNER FRONT LEGS and INNER BACK LEGS matching the star pattern markings.

 

 

STEP 15b

Sew the HOOF PIECES to the BODY PIECES , again matching the star pattern markings.

 

 

SIDE SEAMS:

STEP 16

The BODY & HOOF PIECES are sewn to the TUMMY, INNER LEG & HOOF PIECES in the 3 steps that follow:

 

STEP 16 ~ Step 1 (BACK)

Pin the back legs closed at the back. Pin the BODY & HOOF PIECES to the TUMMY, INNER LEG & HOOF PIECES along the back seam of the back legs. Sew UP the back of each leg, one at a time. Sew from the bottom of the HOOF PIECES at M on one back leg, up the back seam – H. Sew up the back of the other back leg, from the bottom of the HOOF PIECES at M, up the back seam – H.

 

TIP: This step is very tricky to pin and sew. Take your time and use LOTS of pins. This is VERY important so the pieces don’t slip as you sew!

 

 

STEP 16 ~ Step 2 (FRONT)

Pin the BODY & HOOF PIECES to the TUMMY, INNER LEG & HOOF PIECES along the front seam of the front legs and the front seam of the body. Sew from point L on the HOOF PIECES up to J on both legs.

 

TIP: If you are a beginner – you can do ONE leg at a time – BUT please check that you are have pinned the BODY PIECE to the TUMMY PIECE (and not the other BODY PIECE) before you sew the seam. I know this is a very easy mistake to make because I did it myself!

 

 

STEP 16 ~ Step 3 (SIDES)

Pin the BODY & HOOF PIECES to the TUMMY, INNER LEG & HOOF PIECES at the sides, at the back of the front legs, the sides of the body, and the front of the back legs. Sew from the bottom of the HOOF PIECE at M on one of the front legs, up the back of the front legs, along the side seams and down the front of the back legs to L on the HOOF PIECES.

 

REAPEAT
for the other side!

 

HOOF PADS:

STEP 17

Pin and sew the HOOF PADS to the bottom of the HOOF PIECES, matching point L at the front and M at the back.

TIP: I have a tutorial to show you how to sew the FOOT PADS in place. Click HERE to check it out!

How to sew perfect plushie feet!

 

SEW THE NECK TO THE BODY:

STEP 18

Pin the NECK PIECES to the TUMMY & BODY PIECES at the neck seam. Sew from K – F – K on the other side.

TIP: I find the best way to do this is to turn the head (and NECK PIECES) right sides out and position the highland cow’s head ‘inside the body’ so you can pin the pieces together at the neck seam, with the fabric right sides together.

 

STEP 19

Pull the head back out of the body so the pieces are wrong sides out again. Pin and sew the NECK PIECES and TUMMY PIECES together from P – K on the NECK PIECES and from K – G on the TUMMY PIECES.

 

ASSEMBLY:

STEP 20

Turn your Highland cow right sides out through the turning gap on the TUMMY PIECES. Stuff the snout area then the head area really well. Stuff the neck area firmly too. Stuff the hoof and legs next and finish stuffing the tummy area last.

TIP: Make sure the LEGS are stuffed well so that the highland cow will stand up nicely.

 

STEP 21

Sew the stuffing gaps on the TUMMY and TAIL PIECES closed with a ladder stitch.

TIP: You can sew the TAIL PIECES closed with a machine (top stitch) if you like because the seam is flat.

FELT FORELOCK:

STEP 22

Trace the FORELOCK PIECE onto the back of your felt. Cut it out and glue it or sew it onto the head along the ‘top edge’ ONLY. Don’t sew the bottom edge down because it needs to stick out like ‘wild’ fur! (If you are embroidering the eyes, do them now.)

TIP: When you are sewing on the FORELOCK PIECE, hide the knots of your thread behind the felt pieces.

 

FELT FLOWERS:

STEP 23

Cut some FLOWER PETALS from felt. Use a gathering stitch (as shown on the pattern markings) to gather each PETAL PIECE and sew the ends together, slightly overlapping them to form a nice flower. Sew a FLOWER CENTER over the middle of each flower to cover the gathers.

 

 

STEP 24

Pin the flowers on your Highland Cow’s head and when you are happy with the way they look, hand sew (or glue) the flowers on.

Your Highland Coo is ready to LOVE!

 

 

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Till next time,

Happy Sewing,
Pauline
xxx